Most of us who have hung around T-jets for any length of time, eventually get the various tools it takes to remove and replace gears. Most are your basic screw down devices. Problem with many is trying to line up the pin with the shaft, and the tool getting in the line of site. That wasn't a problem here, and I was the guy with a size 13 class ring, and myopia. It was very easy to knock a gear loose with this setup.

The big question is, does it get a gear on and off in a usable fashion? Well, the answer is yes/no. Pressed gears do not tend to cooperate all the time, so the one we removed (Disassembly Punch) was too loose after we replaced it. But, as the directions describe, a few raps on the hole with the specified tool (Peen Punch) makes it completely reusable. The tool for replacing the gear (Assembly Punch) was perfect, and set it to the exact height. Our guess is that there is a limit to the number of times you can do this.

Then we used the same tool that fixed the gears to tighten the rivets on the chassis. This was very effective, and a great improvement over how the stock rivets are installed.

Now for the real test. What if you wanted to replace the whole rivet? First, you had to have some of those rivets. We do. After removing one from a chassis, we took a replacement, and set it through the hole. Picked up the Peen Punch again, and after a few raps, voila! Tight as a ....well, you know how tight it was. The Peen tool was 3 for three.

The remainder of the testing was seeing how it removed and replaced all the gears on the gear plate. Thanks in part to the Disassembly Mandrel, the top gears were a breeze to get off, and replace. The last hurdle was the pinion and driven gears.

Here's where this device really excels, and shows the cleverness of the designer. If you adjust the allen screw to the proper height, as the instructions indicate, the pinion gear mounts accurately every time. Very clever, and very easy to get perfect results. I don't think I am aware of a tool that does this part of the job better.

Now, in our tool box, we don't have a hammer like the one shown in the instructions, so we asked ourselves what we could substitute that we already have, and would it work for every situation? What we used, and we figure every box should have one, is the side of a pair of needle nosed pliers. We had no trouble performing any of the tasks with it, and we saved the cost of a hammer.

Time to pick just a few nits. The instructions need to be a little clearer, and instead of the tiny gray-scale shots, go with one or two bigger views to make it easier to see what the tools look like. Let the descriptions do the work. Include a blowup of the T-jet chassis. Also, the allen wrench needs to be mounted to the base (While we're at it, mount them all there). The other pieces are large enough, but that wrench will disappear. A plastic case for the set would be more to our liking, than the little cloth pouch.

What we have here is a product that does what it says, does it well, and does everything you'd want, and it all comes in a little bag for around $43.75. For anybody working on pancake motors, this is a very fine tool to own.