NOTE: If you wish to avoid the process below, get an ultrasonic cleaner and place the whole car in it to clean. For more accurate info on this process, search the HOW archives, or ask one of the experts on the DL.

First- Make sure you are working on a surface that is relatively clean so that you can keep track of the incredibly minuscule parts involved. Along with this is the need for some kind of prying tool, such as a small screw driver or an AFX tri-tool.

B- Unless you are able to reach through physical matter without drastically disturbing the molecular structure, remove the body and set it aside for the time being.

Tres- Disassemble the chassis by first removing the clamp which holds the armature plate onto the chassis, using your choice of prying tool. You can use your fingernails, but don’t blame me if it ruins your new manicure. Once the clamp is removed and set aside, lift the rear of the arm. plate up and away from the chassis, while watching for the brushes and brush springs which could be clinging to the armature. If the brushes and springs stay in the chassis, carefully lift them out of their individual holes in the chassis and set them aside. Watch out when handling these parts, they are always looking for a way to escape. Likewise, remove the magnets, which should pull up and out quite easily, and set them aside.

Am I moving to fast? No? OK, onward and upward. If I am, oh well.

Vier- At this point I usually inspect the front and rear axles for any signs of lint or hair wrap. If you keep your track squeaky clean, then this might not be a problem. If you have any suspicions that the axles are hair wrapped, remove the wheels and extract the axles, which can be accomplished with the use of a table vice, or needle nose pliers. Thoroughly clean the axles with a rag.

5- Now clean out the chassis proper using some sort of cleaner that breaks up oil for easy removal. I have been using AJ’s Track Cleaner forever, but am told by the real experts that Life Like Track Cleaner is the ultimate. I have been using Q-Tips for absorbing the debris in the chassis, and it also works well for picking up residue off the bodies. But, a clean cloth can be used as well. When finished, remount the axles and wheels.

Sixth- After sacrificing your first born to appease the commutator gods, you may start the process of cleaning the brushes and brush springs. I have found that soaking the springs in a small container of AJ’s (or your choice of cleaner), while cleaning the brushes, is usually quite sufficient for removing most of the oily goop attached to them. Now, THE COM. BRUSHES. The only thing more maddening to handle then these beastly little things are their springs. However, unless you can afford to replace them with a new pair at each cleaning, clean them you must. I use a pencil eraser to remove the crud. That’s right, your everyday, common, pink, rectangular pencil eraser. By rubbing the brushes on the surface of the eraser, the unwanted muck is left behind on the eraser (which I then rub off on my pants to clean the eraser). Wear dark jeans. If you have managed not to loose the brushes by this point, carefully set them aside. If you did loose one, or both, swear till you feel better, then get a flashlight out and search. Use the tip of your tiny screw driver to fish the springs out of the cleaning solution, and lightly blot them on a clean, white rag. Once again, stay sharp. These little buggers are constantly seeking to disappear into black holes. When you are finished blotting the springs, deftly place them back into the chassis in their proper orifice, and follow suit with the com. brushes. It is easier to get them into place before you put the magnets back into the chassis. Set the brush loaded chassis carefully out of bumping range.

G- Rub the magnets down with a rag slightly dampened with your choice of cleaning solution. Steady your shaking nerves. Now proceed to slip the magnets back into their slots in the chassis, all the while keeping the brushes and springs from uprising in revolt. If they pop out, swear till you feel better, then get a flashlight and search till you find them (or just kiss them good-bye and put in replacements).

8- Now, retrieve the armature plate for one of the most important sections of this process. Remove the idler gear and set it aside. I have always used my trusty pencil eraser to clean the armature itself. Once again, I use AJ’s cleaner to remove the oily build-up that can cause split ends........I mean, that causes drag on the gears. Then take a clean rag and gently wipe out the loosened sludge. When you determine that all that can be got has been got, put a drop of oil under the arm. pinion gear, and on top of the cluster gear. Also, put a drop of oil in the under side of the cluster gear where it meets the axle crown gear.

Nine- I have made the re-placement of the armature plate into the chassis a step unto itself, because it can be a #!@%$^% to accomplish. The trick is to hold the magnets in place so they don’t come popping out to cling to the armature, while slipping the armature plate back into place without displacing the nasty little brushes and springs, which are still on the ready to escape.........oh forget it. Go buy a Tyco HP, or a Tomy Turbo or something so you won’t have to face this hassle.........Just kidding. Actually, if you grasp the chassis with one hand, using your index finger and thumb to hold the front magnet still, to hold it firmly on the table, you should be able to slip the armature plate into place with the other hand while holding the rear magnet in place with either your index, or middle finger (your choice). If the chassis is held steady, and the brushes have been placed correctly in their holes, then the chance of escape for the brushes and springs should be greatly reduced. If they get away, swear till you......well, you know the process, then re-try step Nine till you are successful (or buy a Tomy Turbo or Tyco HP and forget the whole thing) It’s really not as hard as it sounds once you get onto it. Then, while holding the armature firmly, but gently, in place, snap the clamp back into the slots on the sides of the chassis. Wipe off any excess oil from the gears after you roll the wheels a bit to work the oil in.

Finally- You are pretty much done, unless you wish to clean the body a bit. I usually use a Q-Tip or a dry, clean rag to rub the body down. I tried a couple of cleaners way back when, but I thought I could detect some removal of paint by these substances. However, I am sure there are some safe, and effective cleaners on the slotcar market today. Also, you may want to check the pickup shoes for wear. I don’t generally consider this as part of the cleaning process because these particular parts are in constant need of cleaning and replacing.

I am sure there are better ways to clean your Magna-Traction cars, but this is the method I used to keep mine alive and kicking for the last twenty years, till I discovered that the slotcar scene was thriving all around the world, and I had been living in a vacuum.

The author of this article refuses to take responsibility for the actual use of the above advice should sickness, damage, or general loss of composure occur (Please see disclaimer at beginning). It’s been fun.