Track wiring is one of those unavoidable chores that can make or break your layout. Nobody will thank you for the hours you spent on it, but it pays to do it right. Thankfully, there’s lots of information on the web to help you through this task. Two pages that I found especially helpful are the diagrams on HOW contributor Brian Ferguson’s Advanced Track Wiring page and the tips posted by the Indiana Slot Racing Alliance.

To feed power to the track, many track builders recommend soldering the wires directly to the bottom of the track rails. However, I wasn’t confident in my ability to do a good job soldering 16 gauge stranded jumper wire to a sliver of exposed track rail. I was also looking for an alternative which allowed the wires to easily be removed from the track during future renovations.

My solution was to add quick-connect terminals directly to the track rails. 1/4” female quick-connect terminals (check your auto parts store or Radio Shack) crimped to the track wiring make later removal a breeze. The male quick-connects were made from .025” thick, 1/4” wide brass strips. Removing the rails from the track made the soldering job easier.

1. Grind away the retaining tabs on the underside of the track rails using a Dremel and a suitable attachment. Press the rail out from below with a screwdriver.

2. Clean up the portion of the tabs still remaining on the rail to allow the rails to be more easily re-set into the track. Grind them flat with the Dremel.

3. Cut off 3/4" pieces of 1/4" wide, .025" thick brass strip. Not surprisingly, you’ll need four pieces for each terminal or jumper track you are building.

4. A brass strip will be soldered to each track rail at a point where the rail previously had a tab. Choose your spot and thoroughly clean the rail using a piece of emery cloth or steel wool. Clean the brass strip for soldering as well.

5. Apply a bit of flux to the rails and brass strips, and coat (tin) each piece with solder.

6. Lay the brass strip so its short edge is even with, or slightly above, the top of the rail. Solder the brass to the rail, holding the brass in place while the solder cools. Inspect to make sure you have a good strong joint.

7. File the brass strip as necessary to bring it even with the top of the rail.

8. The track’s rail slots must be widened where the brass strip has been added. Lay each rail along the slot to find the exact spot and then trim the slot as necessary using a hobby knife. The locations will not line up from rail to rail, so each piece must be positioned before cutting the track.

9. Test fit each rail to ensure that it sits flat in the rail slot. You may need to clean debris from the rail slot with the backside of a knife.

10. OK, you’re about ready to reattach the rails to the track. First, grind two notches on the sides of the brass strips just below the rail. This will give the epoxy an extra spot to grab onto and offer some stress relief to the solder joint when you attach a female quick connect terminal to the brass strip.

11. While you’re at it, grind or file off 1/16” corners from the ends of the brass strips so that each will fit snugly in the female terminal.

12. Set the rails back in the track, and at each spot which previously had a rail tab, epoxy the rails to the track.

13. Attach a female quick-connect terminal to the ends of your jumper wires. Crimp and/or solder them in place.

14. The final step before attaching your wires to the track will be to cut a hole in your table top for the terminal and wires. Lay your track in place to determine where the hole will be cut, mark it, then cut with a jigsaw.