The LifeLike adapters are not truly 6 inches long so this created a shortfall on four of the lanes. I had to use LifeLike adapters on the two middle lanes to even out the distance.

The frame was covered with quarter inch plywood. I then put 3/8" plywood on top of that and set the potential track configuration on top of the plywood sheets. I traced the outline of the track because I wanted to inlay the track to grade level, and cut it out. The problem was that I needed something to shim the track to the correct height since the track itself was 5/16ths inch high and the plywood was 3/8ths. Ended up using heavy duty poster board. Traced it using the plywood template and laid it as a bed for the track to rest on. It also muffled the sound of the track created with track on bare plywood. The grade level allowed me to create wider aprons on the outside/inside to allow fishtailing on a continuous surface.

Next I created the apron with the drivers' stations. Old Model Motoring 9" straights were imbedded at each station. One lane is wired hot to the controller port so that you can test your car, grind your tires, etc., right at your station. The other lane is static so that you can park your cars. A wooden molding on the lip helps corral springs, etc., that might roll around.

The controller ports are household outlets. The Parma controllers use standard plugs on the end to plug into the ports. The wiring system consists of #14 gauge wire. The three wires provide the complete circuit plus brakes A switch is installed for changing directions of travel.

A computer keypad keys in information to the TrakMate program for lap counting. The LynnCo pedestrian bridge on the long straight-of-way houses the LEDs to complete the circuit.

Joe Aquino had put pictures on his track on the Web and shown how he actually painted his track with latex paint.

Joe used flat latex to provide better grip for his tires. Getting the rails clean was no problem using a rail eraser. I have found the LifeLike to be the best. However, getting the primer and paint out of the slots was ugly. I tried several methods before settling on using a miniature hobby file. It took hours of work! The end result looks nice but my hands paid the price "routing out" the paint from the six lanes.

The overpass at the far end was another project. The track had to be torqued to provide a slight bank going into the curve and then banking the opposite direction in short order. I temporarily nailed the track down at both ends over short pieces of 2X6 and 2X4. I then used spray cans of expanding insulating foam to fill in the areas underneath. This provided a sturdy base and muffled the area. Finally, I used screws to secure the ends.

Even though I knew it would be static, I wanted to creat a pit row. I used Winners Circle Pit Row pieces that have the pit crews around diecast cars. Unscrewed the cars and put HO slot cars where I could. Inlaid the pieces and matched paint the best I could. Used old MM track that was "Frankentracked" at both ends to provide the entrance and exit to pit row.

The track is enclosed with a wall topped with "chain link". It is actually 1/2" high closed cell foam that I bought in a large sheet over the internet. 3/8" thick and used for padded vinyl tops on cars.

The chain link consists of 14 penny finishing nails spaced evenly. They have window screen attached to them. I cut strips from both sides of a roll of window screen so that the finished edge would be on top.

Larry Smith