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| Fitting the jig | ||||||||||||||||
| This is one of my many slot car projects. Since I only like to maintain two slotcar systems, regular slotted and Tyco TCR slotless, the cars I like to keep must run on either system. Mostly they are modified to work on my slotted Tomy track due to the TCR chassis being too short for the wheelbases of the cars I modify. I have modified Ideal TCR, Lionel Power Passer, Matchbox Speedtrack and Praying Mantis Sizzler cars to work on my slotted track.There are no shelf Queens in my collection.All cars must perform. I have found that it is best to scrap the original chassis.I have tried modifying some for slotted use but the results were usually poor in relation to the effort expended.That is why I use either a Tomy G+ or Tyco/Mattel 440-X2, depending on the cars width. In modifying the Lionel Power Passer Mustang,the chassis & "Crash" mechanism is removed from the rear.The "Flagpole" that is on the right hand fender is removed and its base is removed and filled in using technique from Mike Vitale's book, "Complete Restoration Guide to Aurora HO Slot Cars" .The height of the body is set by Dremeling the old mounting posts and using Plastruct to make new supports glued in using Super Glue Gel.Since the inner sides of the body concave in, they must be made straigtht and smooth so the mounting tabs can be properly installed. I use a mixture of Super Glue gel & "Dremel Dust"(Made by gathering all of the flakes and bits that cover your work table and sifting it into a fine powder). | ||||||||||||||||
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| The material is then smoothed in the inner side where the mounting tabs will be and Dremeled smooth after drying.I then install my "Jig" made from an old Tomy G+ chassis that helps me align the mounting tabs properly for the G+ chassis. After rmoving the "guts" I open the tabs towards the bottom of the chassis & reinforce the top. The yellow paint is so I can easily remove the jig if any glue gets on it.You can also use a regular G+ chassis by RTV'ing the tab end & carefully mounting the chassis after the glue is applied. I find it a good idea to "Mummify" the body with masking tape to keep the body clean of glue. The new tabs are made from Plastruct T-sections or beam sections and Dremeled and filed to fit the groove in the G+ chassis (The extra mounting clip is removed ). After placing the jig in the body, Super Glue gel is smeared on the back of the mounting tabs and the tabs carefully installed. After drying, the jig is removed and the tabs filed and I "click" on the new G+ chassis. I also had to modify the front spoiler as it was too wide and low for using in my track. The rear hatch is installed with Super Glue gel and car is appropriately painted. | ||||||||||||||||
| Filling in for mounting tabs | ||||||||||||||||
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| The original Lionel Power Passer decals were then used. I now have a car that is drivable on my track , and unique.This is also great because I enjoy modeling any how plus I do not have the budget for spending $500+ at shows like some other people. Ideal TCR, Lionel Power Passers ,Matchbox Speedtrack and RPS can still be had for prices as low as $5.With the G+ chassis,$5 for the Power Passer Mustang (Still in its blister pack!) I have a great car for under $20! | ||||||||||||||||
| The "New" Tyco | ||||||||||||||||
| Fits like a glove | ||||||||||||||||
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